Saturday, November 21, 2015

Beaded shoes, beheadings and acting

We woke up reluctantly around 8:15 to get to the free walking tour at 9. Because of the full bus situation, we decided to stay another night here and try to leave the next morning. The hostel was full and wouldn't let us extend so I checked out. Gretchens left her bigger bag locked in the hostel and I brought mine with me for the tour. I had 4 Nutella sandwiches and coffee for breakfast. 

We were a little late for the tour but they hadn't left yet. It started in a museum and went to a bunch of major sites for the next two and a half hours. Here are some of the facts I wrote down in my notebook: Kuala Lumpur was a big tin mining town and the British came here for tea. The literal translation of the city name is "muddy estuary". Malaysia is governed by 9 kings who rule individual states and take turns ruling the country. It's called Malaysia because the British thought all the workers here were lazy and suffering from "malaise" so they brought over workers from China for their tea plantations and mines. 
Marriage customs: the groom(or bride, I wasn't sure) makes a beaded shoe for his mother in law and she has to approve for the marriage to continue. For warriors, the suitor asks the father in law for a list of his enemies and the suitor has to deliver their heads by morning. The more heads he brings, the more honor he is awarded. 
In the textile museum, I learned that women wear light colors and shades when they are single, red is for hookers, and dark colors are for married women, black for widows. Very practical stuff. 
Traditional Weddings last 3 days and nights which has nothing on Indian weddings. 

We explored the state building and then went into the cathedral which is home to one of the three pipe organs in the country. We were able to walk through the "Royal Selangor Club" (formerly the "Spotted Dog"), a gentleman's club which, for most of its history was only for white Englishmen. It overlooks a big cricket pitch and was the site of many scandals. It remains a club but is now open to women and some locals as well. 

After the tour, we walked through china town and had a big meal of street food. I almost bought a "north face" bag that started at 100 ringgit and ended at 25, but I decided I didn't want another bag. I'm thinking about traveling somewhere colder and will need more room for warm clothes. One of the hostel guests is heading south and was going to give me a jacket and warm pants that someone had given him in Mongolia. Doikebah. 

We went to Starbucks to find wifi and reserve bus for tomorrow and a hostel for tonight. The busses had filled up until 330, but we got two seats. I also went to the mall and got a few passport photos taken in case I need them for visas or permits and then I went back to the historic theatre from the tour for a 3pm showing of "Mud" the musical.

 It was pouring rain again and the AC inside felt so nice. The credit card machine was broken and I didn't have enough cash on me so I told them I'd find an atm after the show and they let me in. I was a couple minutes late but they hadn't started and I talked with the cast in the lobby for a moment before going to find a seat. The theatre was at most two thirds full with at least half of those seated from other countries. The play was a story about the history of the city and in (Asian-accented) English. I sat alone in the front row and about halfway though they asked if I would help them fill a role of someone who was out. It was one of those audience participation things I think but they didn't ask for volunteers and I was the only audience on stage. Being in a foreign country and so far from my own culture, social scene, and comfort zone has made me that much more unselfconscious. (The frequent impromptu dance parties in India definitely helped with this). I went up on stage and while the play focused on another corner, an actor taught me my role, (stiring the pot of soup). It involved some percussion and dancing around the soup and a cast member would whisper my couple lines to me before I had to say them (something about Apu being late for the meal). I was on stage for what felt like 15 minutes and badly butchered the dancing parts I tried to follow. I went back on stage at the end for the final dance with two of the other audience members. 

After the show it was pouring rain, (still monsoon season) but I went to find the atm. When I got back, I went to sit with the cast and asked them if they wanted to go out after their second show at 830. They were going to grab food for dinner and I went with them to an open air market. I was mainly taking with Nave, who played one of the main roles. We went to eat a spicy chicken rice dish that he was surprised I could handle both the heat and eating with my fingers (India makes one an expert in both). We talked about the importance of following ones passion and how he likes his work acting. His father wants him to take over the family business and refuses to see any of his shows. I told him about Jake, who thought he had to work in finance until he  decided he needs to pursue the music in his soul. 

Nave has the next 4 days off and he decided to come to the highlands with us. After the early dinner, I went to meet Gretchen at our hostel for the night. It's a "party hostel" and was much bigger than the one last night. The staff was less friendly and it seemed like more of a business than a haven for backpackers. We had a private room with two beds which, on the ground floor, was perfectly placed to limit noise from the rooftop bar. I ate a second dinner(included with the room) with Gretchen and some Germans from Singapore. We went out for ice cream and I showered and washed my clothes. (Only have two sets). Nave came to pick me up around 11 and Gretchen went to sleep. He had a specific bar in mind but it was really quiet when we got there so he took me on a quick driving tour of parts of the city. We almost went to his friends house for a BBQ party. Most of the cast doesn't drink (part of being a Muslim country). We ended up in another outdoor market and had (3rd) dinner and a beer while watching a street performer twirl fire. Nave dropped me off around 1:30 and after checking out view from the rooftop bar, I went to sleep. 

-AB

View from the first hostel

Model of the city.   

City hall


From the spotted dog
"All currency accepted"

The cast of Mud
 Nave is in the PEACE hat









 


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